Chalukyan gems - Badami, Aihole & Pattadakal and Kudalasangama

If you are visiting Hampi to see the glorious Vijayanagaran kingdom, journeying north-westwards for about 150 KMs, will take you back another 8 centuries to the Chalukyan cities of Badami, Pattadakal and Aihole (6th to 12th century).

Bhoothnatha temple by the Agasthya Lake, Badami. It's magical to sit on the lake steps on the western end and see the sun lighting up the hills and the Bhoothanatha temple on the eastern side close to the sunset time.

The history around the Chalukyan empire is a simple 'survival of the fittest'. Feudal lords under Kadamba kingdom established an empire of their own (Badami Chalukyas) taking advantage of weak Kadamba leadership and similarly owing to weak kings, the Badami Chalukyas not only split into independent dynasties of Eastern Chalukyas and Western Chalukyas but eventually the kings became feudal lords again under the Rashtrakutas. 

The Chalukyas in their period of rule controlled the region between Kaveri and Narmada rivers and for the huge kingdom that it was, they did all the right things - administered effectively, facilitated trade and commerce and patronised art, architecture and local language literature. And like the Vijayanagara empire all that remains today are the monuments that they built and the works of literature that they had encouraged.

The temple building started off with building of cave temples in Aihole in early 6th century and then the beautiful cave temples in Badami which are UNESCO world heritage monuments. Then they started experimenting with temple building using locally available red sandstone at Aihole and then as the capital was shifted to Badami(called Vatapi back then) the temple building continued there. Many different styles of architecture were experimented upon in Aihole - the South Indian Dravidian, the North Indian Nagara, the Buddhist and Jain styles - there are around 70 temples spread over a large area in Aihole that have been excavated so far, little wonder then that the place is called 'the cradle of Indian temple architecture'.

Durga temple, Aihole

The temples that were built later in 8th century in Pattadakal shows progressively complex designs and is where the Chalukyan architecture blossomed. There are 10 temples in the Pattadakal compex, in Dravidian style, Nagara style as well as fusion of the two. This is another UNESCO World heritage site. 

Archaeological Society of India ('ASI') has as everywhere else, done a great job of preserving the monuments within the complex but it's the abject indifference to the immediate surroundings that left me disturbed. A small village of Pattadakal and such it would have remained but for the world's discovery of the Chalukyan monuments. What was once the village's 'toilet zone' was usurped and a road built on it which now runs parallel to the complex but as no alternate arrangement was made for villagers the place continues to be used by the villagers as their restroom and the visitors are left to precariously make their way through it all to the complex cursing the uncouth villagers perhaps but lets spare a thought for the villagers - what circumstance force them to take position on an open road in the wee hours of the morning facing these heritage monuments.  

R to L-8th century Sangameshwara temple and towers of 7th century Jambulinga and 8th century Galaganatha temples, Pattadakal

I found the temples at Aihole and Pattadakal to be beautiful but the cave temples in Badami are just magnificent. The caves were sculpted in the red sandstone mountains to make temples, then the walls, ceilings and pillars were carved and sculpted upon. The 'Agastya Thirtha' (an artificial pond, surrounded by the cave temples and hills), Bhoothnatha temples at the farther end of this pond all make Badami very special.

Agasthya Lake, Bhoothnatha temple and the surrounding sandstone hills in Badami in the evening light

The Western Chalukyas became the conceptual link between the Chalukyan architecture and the lovely 13th century Hoysala architecture of Belur, Halebeedu and Somanathapura fame.

5th century Gaudaragudi temple, Aihole

9th century Badigere temple, Aihole. 

Sculptures in Durga temple in Aihole temple complex

The temples in Aihole, Pattadakal and Badami remarkably escaped the fate that befell Hampi. In fact, the temples in Aihole were even occupied by local people and today are identified by the people who had occupied them. But of all the temples, the Virupaksha temple in Pattadakal is the only functional templ. The idols are missing from most other temples.

7th century Kada Siddheswara temple, 8th century Kashi Vishveshwara temple(both in Nagara style) and the Pattadakal temple complex.

8th Century Virupaksha temple in Pattadakal built in Dravidian style of architecture by the queen to commemorate the king's conquest of Kanchi

8th century Mallikarjuna temple in Pattadakal, a replica of the Virupaksha temple, built by the younger queen to commemorate the same victory over the kingdom of Kanchi. 

Badami cave temples

4 temples carved out in the sandstone hills - non-load bearing decorative pillars with carvings on them, the front portion of the caves with natural light to brighten them have huge sculptures of Gods on the walls and similarly decorated ceiling. The interior of the temples with less or no light have no such beautifying carvings and so are the now empty sanctum sanctorums. 

Cave 1: The oldest of the cave temples, dedicated to Shiva and carved in 543 AD. There are huge sculptures on the walls of 18 armed Nataraja, Mahishasura Mardina, Ardha Narishwara and Harihara. Also popular are the flat-tummy Ganesha ('Vatapi Ganesh') who is popular with performing artists and a sculpture of Elephant and Bull which share a head. 

Cave 2: Dedicated to Vishnu, has sculptures of incarnations of Vishnu - Vamana and Varaha.

Cave 3: Dedicated to Vishnu as well and built by Mangalesha, the king's brother. This cave is very wide and has a beautiful sculpture of Vishnu sitting on Adishesha. Also has sculptures of a standing, victorious Vijaya Narasimha and another standing Vishnu. 

Cave 4: A Jain temple

There are many other temples surrounding the Agastya lake as also traces from pre-historic times. 

Cave temples of Badami - the 'Shaiva' cave temple is visible and also can glimpse the Vishnu cave temple higher up. 

Interior of the Shiva cave temple, Badami 

Sculptures in the Badami Cave temples - Clockwise from Top left- MahaVishnu sitting on Adishesha and the pillared view from the other end of the temple, an 18-armed dancing Nataraja(supposedly this sculpture covers all the possible 108 hand postures in Bharathanatya)  with Ganesha dancing with his father while Nandi is nodding his approval and the percussionist(I don't remember who this is) is drumming up the beats, Varaha, the boar incarnation of Vishnu rescuing mother earth and a victorious Narasimha after killing the demon king, Hiranyakashyapu.

Vamana in the Badami cave temples and Mr Raju, an excellent guide to tour these temples with

The Jain cave at the highest level, Badami

Clockwise from Top: De-husked corn laid out to dry, a village house with a dog snoozing on the cart, a millet field with onions laid out to dry and dry stalks staked up for future use as fodder, a Sunflower field and nomadic sheep herders. 

Agstya lake, Badami 

All the monuments in Badami, Aihole and Pattadakal are open from 6AM to 6PM everyday and museums in Aihole and Badami are open from 10 AM to 5 PM and closed on Fridays. The entrance fee to each of the monument is very nominal but the guide fees is not as nominal but definitely worth the cost especially if one is lucky to have a good guide. In October 2016, we paid Rs 400, Rs 400 and Rs 500 for guides in Aihole, Pattadakal and Badami respectively.  Of course, one can negotiate with the ASI registered guides and could also split the cost by taking the tour along with another family/group.

Places close by worth a visit:

Banashakari temple: The goddess has been worshipped since before the Chalukyan period, a temple was built by Rashtrakutas in 9th century and the present day temple belongs to the Vijayanagara period.

Mahakuta: Temple of Muhakuteshwara with temple probably belonging to the Chalukyan era.

Kudalasangama: Temple of Sangameshwara with the temple built in the Chalukyan era which has been almost completely renovated today, situated at the confluence of Krishna, Ghataprabha and Malaprabha. It was an important centre for learning in the 12th century, the Lingayat guru, Basaveshswara studied here and then later on left for his heavenly abode on the shores of the confluence of the rivers. A beautiful monument has been built at the place ('Aikya Mantapa') where he is buried and the spot is also marked by a 'self manifested' linga.

Kudalasangama

Ilkal: If you are in Kudalasangama, do visit this town en route for beautiful and unique 'Ilkal' cotton sarees. 

Corbett National Park - Safari guide

Planning a trip to Corbett National Park('Corbett') takes a little planning ahead. As there are limited entry permits to enter the safari zones.

The first Asian national park, established in 1936, Corbett today is spread across 3 districts of Uttarakhand (Pauri, Nainital and Almora). Popular for being home to Bengal Tigers, it is also home to Leopards, Jackals, Gharials, Cobras...as well as Elephants, a variety of Deer and other mammals as also around 550 species of winged beauties.

A Sambar Deer in the company of Spotted Deer in the Dhela zone of Corbett

There is more than enough content online around the 'best zones', 'best time', 'how to reach' and so on...so leaving out all of that...here are my thoughts...

For Safaris in Corbett entry permits need to be booked in advance (online on http://corbettonline.uk.gov.in/), jeeps (Rs 1,500 for a single safari) and guides (Rs 500 for one safari) hired for the session - there are morning and evening safaris. Overnight accommodation can also be booked in the same way. 

Dhikala is the most popular zone, but done in a Canter, which creates enough noise for humans caught unawares to take to their heels, am not sure how a predator would still stick around close enough for the canter riders to have a glimpse at them. The grass munching animals seem not to mind the noise as much, not sure why. Canter ride is the only way someone not staying in the forest guest houses can do the safari. Else, book accommodation in advance(on same website), hire a 'gypsy' jeep for the duration of stay (around Rs 7,000 for 2 days), stay in the heart of Corbett, in Dhikala and leisurely take in the sounds and sights of the forest. 

Most of the photos posted here have been clicked by my husband, Madhan Sundar G. I can't thank him enough for relieving me of handling the camera and so leaving me to make full use of the binoculars which I love infinitely more than the camera. 

A herd of Spotted Deer by the Ramganga reservoir in the grassland of Dhikala zone, Corbett 

View of the Ramganga reservoir from the Dhikala Tourist Complex, Corbett

A rain-fed river in Dhikala zone of Corbett in the early part of the day and the promise of warmth in the hills beyond

Elephants having their breakfast in the grasslands of Dhikala zone, Corbett

A rain-fed river in Dhikala zone of Corbett, clicked on the return canter ride

Spotted Deer breakfasting in Dhikala zone of Corbett

Pugmarks of a tiger in Dhikala Zone, Corbett

A Sambar Deer in Dhikala Zone of Corbett. Watch the ears take in sounds from all around.

A flock of Plum headed Parakeets feasting in the morning in Dhela Zone of Corbett

Sunrise in Dhela zone of Corbett

The vast grasslands in Dhela zone of Corbett

A Jackal looking at us and yet not making eye contact...Dhela zone of Corbett

Hog Deer, Bijlani Zone of Corbett 

A Langur grooming session in progress in the evening in Bijlani zone of Corbett

Bijlani Zone of Corbett

Birds of Corbett National Park

Wetland birds in/around Corbett National Park  

Though the tiger remained elusive on our outings in 3 zones, there was something special in each of the safari. In Dhela, my favourite, saw herds of sprinting Spotted Deer, a Jackal couple who walked right past us, a feasting flock of Plum-headed and Ashy-headed parakeets were the highlights. In Dhikela, the Spotted Deer herd by the reservoir against the backdrop of the forested hills and the waters of the Ramganga was an amazing sight, a slice of heaven. The flock of Scarlet Minivets by the tourist complex was good enough to make us skip breakfast and watch them instead. In Bijlani, sighting the endangered Hog Deer and being at the receiving end of a typical cold hard stare of a Black Shouldered Kite was exciting, and finally a Langur sitting in the middle of the road, who was worried about his tail being run over was a memorable end to our wonderful trip to Corbett. These were just the extra specials, we spotted many a Sambar Deer, Spotted Deer, Elephants, a very shy Wild Boar, Peafowls and many birds. 

What really was interesting to me was how the animals completely ignored our presence, which gives me hope that we are probably not doing something that's totally wrong in terms of the kind of visitors, the number of visitors, the duration of visits or perhaps they have been taunted and hunted for far too long during the previous century(even by Jim Corbett himself) that mere presence is something they have learnt to live with.

In Uttarakhand, as well in Corbett, animals' patience is stretched to its limit, especially that of Leopards and Elephants due to habitat loss and fragmentation. Do your bit to not to test their patience further. Holiday responsibly - respect their space when in forest, don't opt for Elephant safari(especially the private ones-they are just an endless demand and supply game for Elephants for just a couple of hours of joy ride for you, don't use bottled water(there's no need for it) or polythene. 

Enjoy the silence of the forest, the chatter of the birds, the soothing greenery, the majestic scenery and chance will bring animals and birds in your path, perhaps even a Tiger.  

Nainital

When in Corbett, taking a day off to go to nearby places is the norm and there's a lot of places to choose from being at the foothills of Himalayas.

• Garjia Matha Temple on the bank of river Kosi-while there look for Ibisbills, the winter residents.
• Kosi Barrage, Ramnagar-hosts a lot of wintering birds
• Kalagarh dam-the Ramganga river dam is a birder's paradise 
• Cobett Falls-A nice falls no more than 10 feet high, it opens at 9AM, if that is an impediment to starting early to reaching someplace, drop the falls.
• Corbett Museum at his Kaladhungi house, where his family spent the winters away from cold Nainital.
• Nainital(6,837 feet ASL)- the Naina(eye) shaped natural spring lake, Naina devi Temple, Buckingham palace modeled 1899 completed Raj Bhavan, a few high rises around-most easily reachable amongst them is the Snowview peak(take a cable car ride to see the Nandadevi range in clear skies of winter months), St John in the Wilderness church with its stained glasses.
• Kilbury and pangot-Bird watchers' paradise
• Lake towns of Khurpatal(get to see a birds' eye view of this on the way to Nainital), Bhimtal, Sattal, Nakuchiyatal all at varying distance from Nainital. Apparently Nainital lake is the most beautiful.
• Ramgarh-with its apple orchards
• Muktheshwar-Lord Shiva's temple and beautiful views of Himalayas.